How can you say that your [version] is [truer] than ours?

Disclaimer, this blog post is about my impressions of the residue left on Vietnam from the Vietnam War. I will be including some photos that really affected me and as these are photos of victims of Agent Orange they are not pleasant to look at. I will post these at the bottom so if you don't want to scroll down to view them you won't need to. 

Imagine being in a dark tunnel, deep and winding. There is no light to guide you and you need to move fast around the bends crouched low so as not to hit your head, breathing in the dust. At points, your feet give way and you fall to a lower level and for a few steps you crawl forward until you hit  a wall. Reaching up, you drag yourself back to the higher level. Pushing forward, panic sets in as you hear the drone of the airplanes above you. Have they discovered this deep and secret place you and your village live in?

Before arriving in Vietnam, I didn't know much about the Vietnam war - the little I knew was garnered from TV shows/movies where the American veterans were being honoured. What else I knew was about the protests and  it was all from the American perspective. Vietnam changed that for me and opened my eyes to another piece of the truth.

On our first day in Ho Chi Minh, we visited the War Remnants Museum. I can't begin to describe just how profound an affect this had on me. I couldn't stay in one room because the images and words I was reading were causing me to feel overwhelmed. This room included photos taken by American and International photographers. Some included statements from former soldiers long after the Vietnam War had ended. The most disturbing of these photos was of some women and children which had been taken just moments before they died. The photographer left a statement with the photo that he knew they were going to die right after he took the photo and a result he wouldn't turn around to look back as he heard the shots.I had to leave and go sit outside. I just felt heavy as if there was huge weight on me that I couldn't shake.

Agent Orange was a pesticide that was sprayed to clear away the forests of Vietnam so that the Vietnamese would be easier to spot for American soldiers. What the soldiers spraying this pesticide didn't know was the effects this would have on them, their bodies and the families even to this day. The effect on the Vietnamese landscape, water supplies, natural habitats and lives is even more disturbing. The men and women who came in contact with this pesticide directly either were killed or maimed. In Vietnam alone it is estimated that number may be as high as 400,000 people. Sadly, it's effects did not stop there. Even now sterility and birth defects are a considered a common side effect of this herbicide. Since the Vietnam War around 500,000 children have been born with birth defects directly linked to Agent Orange.All this we learned on our first day. While there were some things that were obviously propaganda and contained some Anti-American sentiment, it was also understandable to us why this would be so. After all, America was the one that sprayed the country with this horrid pesticide that was still affecting them all these years later.

 When we visited the Cu Chi Tunnels a few days later we were shown an extremely obvious propaganda film that looked as if it was as old as the Vietnamese War. Whilst there, we got to experience life as a Cu Chi Tunnel fighter. We able to see the weapons and traps they used against American soldiers. Some of these were extremely lethal - doors, when opened let a trap fall from the ceiling full of spikes that you stab you in the chest and face. The most telling experience I had was here. We got to enter the tunnels which were widen for tourists. I had to crouch/crawl at some points, short as I am and at others I felt claustrophobic. In fact, I told my friend goodbye at one exit and went part way up the steps to breathe with the intention of not re-entering. However, this was something I wanted to experience. There aren't many chances where you can actually feel the way someone felt in a situation you have never experienced. I couldn't let that go by me. So I swallowed my fear and gave it my all and fought through what was increasing panic and being in a dark, tight place. Harder still was it to imagine that this tunnel had actually been widen so I could get through. I can't put myself in their shoes, not really. I don't hear the planes roaring above me, the panic seeping in as I wind my way through the tunnel knowing that there is a soldier behind me. I don't know what is to run blind through this tunnel, I have lights to guide me. I don't have to sleep in the doorway of a tunnel that is my home, blind in the darkness that seeps into my core. This was the life of the men, women and children of the Cu Chi area.

So you might think I am mad to have let what could probably be considered blatant propaganda to affect me so deeply. However, no matter how hard I try I can not escape the reality that this truth is there and that the American truth is not better that theirs. It's just another version that gives us their all - their piece of the story. Whilst there may be some lies mixed in with the truth some things that America did were truly awful. One only needs to look at former Nebraska Senator Bob Kerrey to know that it's too easy to let evil slip into our lives especially when there is the heat of the battle to influence you and allow you to commit terrible atrocities.  However, there is still hope, a chance that if America makes proper reparation for it's part in maiming the lives of people that America and Vietnam could one stand as brothers, shoulder to shoulder, who carry no arms.  My takeaway from this experience is that apathy is our enemy but a bigger one may just be allowing ourselves to be caught up doing evil in the name of doing right.

PS This post was inspired by what I saw and experienced whilst in Ho Chi Minh and visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels. I don't believe that this blog can ever give justice to how I feel about the Vietnam war and the terrible atrocities committed there and the effects they still have. I was listening to Mumford and Sons recently and their song "I gave you all" brought back to me some of my feelings and I realised that as strongly as I had felt whilst in Vietnam I had yet to really vocalise just how much this trip affected and changed me.
This post only records my impressions and feelings on finding out the Vietnamese perspective. This is not meant as a condemnation of anyone.

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The (sleeper) train to anywhere.

I firmly believe that the highlight of any job, no matter how much you enjoy it, is holiday time. When I was in college, those were the trips spent with my family in Omaha and Lincoln or spring breaks spent with my bestie, Mrs Ordinary (she’s anything but), in Kearney or Colorado Springs. Working at my old job whether it was the quick weekend getaways to Galway or extended weekends in UK and mainland Europe, I used to count down incessantly to my next break. I liked my holidays so much that I willing worked any public holiday that I could so that I could use the day at a more convenient break. Thanks to my holidays I’ve been able to travel to quite a few places in Europe and I have visited several different states (11, I believe where I have actually been and not just extended time in the airport!) Whilst I enjoyed all of these holidays immensely and even hold some of them amongst my fondest memories (Nebraska, Summer 2001 anyone?), I would be lying if I did not say that I am delighted that my journey to anywhere did not stop there.

Being in Korea is brilliant and I am so glad that I have the opportunity to visit this amazing country. One of the biggest advantages of living here is that Korea is a pretty good blend of Western and Eastern culture. The food, the palaces, the language and squat toilets etc reminds you that you are in Asia. However, the complexity (ok I don’t find it complex but many other foreigners do) and extent of the Seoul Metro could easily rival one of the many European ones I have encountered such as those in London and Paris. Additionally, the Korail trains which included the KTX (super fast train which I have yet to take) and the Mungunghwa (slow train which I frequently take) would put (and should put) Iarnoid Eireann to shame. South Korea is not that much bigger area wise than Ireland (CIA Factbook: South Korea: 96,920 sq km, Ireland: 68,883 sq km), and while it does have a much denser population and it’s terrain is much rougher than our own they have trains that go everywhere. Furthermore, where the trains don’t go, there is an express or intercity bus that does. Additionally, the trains here are really cheap– I can travel to Gyeongju, a city 4 hours away, for less than W30,000 which is lessthan E20.00 or $30). Transport aside, the skyscrapers, easy access to WIFI and the tons of coffee shops on pretty much every urban street (even in the smallest urban dwellings) are a constant reminder of the influence the West has on Korea. I personally find that this heady mix is a great way to acclimate to Korea. You get the exposure to Korea and Koreans but some of the best conveniences of the Western World (coffee and subways, I’m talking to you!). However, the best advantage to living in Korea – it’s a gateway to the rest of Asia. Whether you want to go to Japan, the Philippines or Thailand, it’s relatively easy to access from here.

When I went to Vietnam last month for two weeks, I was amazed at how different Vietnam feels to Korea. Whilst, I do sometimes complain of the lack of paths in Korea, in Vietnam, this was immediately noticeable. Further, (and this probably because I live in a small town in Korea) the noise levels were higher, the roads scarier (try walking across a road with motorbikes coming at you in every direction AND you have the green man!) and the prevalence of sidewalk bins comforting (these are a rare sight in Korea – I only ever find bins in the Subway and Train stations or at some of the monuments. There are very few on the actual streets – in fact, I’ve yet to see one). Not only is the food different, but so is the approach of its people. Nothing against Koreans, but a lot of them (as I have already detailed) will stare at you in disbelief when you board the bus or are in the market trying to buy a banana. In Vietnam, we were greeted like old friends, called sweetheart and had street vendors desperately trying to have us buy their wares. While most adult Koreans that I talk to have a rudimentary understanding of English (NB my co-teachers have excellent English), the Vietnamese were really quite good – granted we were in more touristy areas but even when I got dresses made they understood not only what I wanted but also an aside to my friend.

One of the biggest highlights of my trip there was taking (once almost literally) the midnight train to anywhere. 5 of us took a sleeper train to Da Nang (where we transferred to Hoi An) and then from there a few days later to Hanoi. Our room had 6 bunks, 3 on either side stacked up on top of each other (so three levels). Our first night was great fun, we chatted, ate bread and sweets, played cards and despaired that there were only “squat toilets” on the train., Eventually, we slept. One big difference between Korea and Vietnam in relation to trains was that the train can arrive early (same as Korea) but also LEAVE early (definitely not the same).
The next morning I woke up around 7, so my friend and I went to find bathrooms.  I was looking at the stops and trying to figure out how long we had. I figured we were coming to the stop that was two stops before Da Nang, so I stopped one of the train officials to check only to be informed that we actually were coming into Da Nang. We ran back to our cabin, woke everyone up and dragged our belongings (which had somehow spread ALL over the cabin) into anyone’s bag that they would fit and out of the cabin. We were just pulling the last bags out when the official ran to tell us – that no, we weren’t at Da Nang, we were actually at the stop that I thought we had been at originally.

Disappointed but impressed that we had managed to get ourselves sorted in a few minutes we sat back down to some more card games and a few rounds of Stop the Bus. Our second train trip was not as eventful. This time we took a train at almost midnight and slept peaceably until the next morning. Sadly, this time we were not altogether in once cabin. However, we had a few Vietnamese people stop by to practice their English with us (and hit on one of us). One thing that did happen that was hilarious but extremely embarrassing was that the bathroom door did not close on one of the squatter toilets. And yes, you guessed it, someone opened it!  I found out afterwards that there was a normal toilet on the other end of our carriage (and the door wasn’t broken)! Whilst mortified and embarrassed, I now know how to use a squatter toilet, something that I had avoided successfully in Korea, and now have a funny story to boot!

So you might think, I’m mad to not want to stay in Korea forever especially with the fantastic transport system. You might think I’m mad to have even used a squatter toilet and to have taken a train that was most unreliable. Well, the thing is, I am “working hard to get my fill” of adventure – every funny story, every city or country visited is another element that gives me my “thrill”. I love travelling and living in Korea has been my gateway to cultures and people I didn’t know much about before I moved here. However, I don’t want to stop believing or holding on to the feeling that life has so much more on offer for me. I want to believe that the world really is my oyster and if I stay in Korea for the rest of my life, that world could become limited and no longer provide me the thrill of winning a new experience.

I hope you enjoy these photos that I have included they are from my trip to Vietnam.

PS This post was inspired by “Don’t stop believin’” by Journey.

  

                    

      

  

      


There may be a hole in my bucket

Has anyone seen the movie The Bucket List with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman? That movie instilled in me a need to do some of the things I have always wanted to do with my life. In fact, after that movie came out is when I started to mentally tick things off in my head as I got them done: Edinburgh, check! London, check! Paris, check! etc etc. However, despite the fact that this movie came out a long time ago, I've never gotten around to actually doing a bucket list.

I started writing down things just in the last couple of weeks but I've come to the conclusion that I have so many items and, consequently, they will dint a hole if I put them all in just one bucket.

So instead, I made a Korea bucket list (see photo). I only actually wrote these down this week in this design and as you can see by the smiley face some are done already. That was on purpose. I need a little bit of encouragement and noting that a few things are done on my list already is a great incentive. I have 30 things on this list and I hope that I will add some more before too long. (NB-the things that are done already would have been on my list regardless!)

Incidentally, whilst my overall life bucket list isn't even started some things that would have been on it are: sleep in a bed on a train (I got to do this in Vietnam), eat streetfood in every Asian country that I visit (check for Korea and Vietnam), live in a country where I don't speak the language (check for Korea), visit one of the 7 natural wonders of the world (Ha Long Bay, thank you!), go on the Orient express (or at least part of it!) and visit the Pyramids in Egypt (that has been a dream going on 15 or so years so hopefully one day!). Another bucket list item is to visit as many countries as possible in a qualitative sense rather than quantative. Wherever I go, I want to experience as much as possible of the history, culture and food. So, that doesn't mean I can visit 5 countries in 1 week!

I've been reading a lot of online bucket lists and I have noticed that like mine, they tend to be a mix of dreams, aspirations and things that one can definitely do. For the bucket list I have for Korea, I would say my biggest dream/aspiration is to visit 4 other Asian countries, go to Jeju Island and do the Hot Air Balloon Ride. The ones that I can definitely do: visit all 5 palaces and eat the dakgalbi in Chuncheon as well as the more mundane (but no less important to me) such as kite flying, snowman building and learning Korean.

So, you might think I'm mad to have decided to do a bucket list that is really only aimed at Korea. So, you might think I'm mad to limit myself to only 4 Asian countries when the world is my oyster. You might be right.

However, I am LIVING in Korea and I would like to know that when I come back to Ireland that if people asked me what Korea is like I would be able to tell them something of the culture, the history, the food. That when I go back I would be able to tell people that such and such sight in Korea is amazing and you don't want to miss it even if it isn't in any guide book! I would like to be able to go home and say to people that I learned something about each place I visited's culture and history. I don't want to spend my time whirling around from place to place and coming away exhausted, confused and not remembering whether something was in Vietnam, Japan or China!

PS. This post was inspired by the song "There's a hole in my bucket, dear Liza"  and the movie The Bucket List.

PPS. Please note that 11 in the photo only has 3 countries listed (Vietnam, Thailand and Laos) out of the 4  because I've yet to decide what other country I would like to visit.

PPS I can knock Busan off my list and taking the KTX...however, I do want to take the KTX whilst awake - passed out on my way home from Busan.